Glam Puppies- Micros and Teacups glampuppies@yahoo.com

Buying A Puppy-Choosing a family member.

Buying a puppy is a big deal. You're not just getting a "pet", you're getting a new family member! All of our puppies come pre-spoiled and loved to the core, so do not worry about adapting to a family life! These guys are READY!

We are here for you every step of the way- picking the puppy, planning the meeting arrangements, getting things together for puppy at home, puppies first night, and everything thereafter- we are HERE. We do offer lifetime support -something VERY important with small dogs- 24 hours a day 7 days a week 365 days a year, WE ARE HERE!

First Step: Picking your puppy

First thing you need to consider when choosing a breed- the W's and the lonely H.

WHO: Who is this puppy mainly for? You? You and your significant other? Older/Younger Person? Family Pet?

WHAT: What do you expect out of this dog? An active dog to go jogging with? A playful dog for the kids? A purse puppy to go everywhere with you? A pure companion for laying on the couch with you? An outdoors buddy? Breeder?

WHERE: Where do you live? An Apartment? A house? A Farm? The city? The county? If there are size limitations, make sure you know those first!

WHY: Why do you truly want this dog? Do you need a friend? Is it a gift? New member of the family? Or are you looking for a hypoallergenic dog because of allergies?

HOW: How are you or you and your family going to care for it? Will the kids take care of it? How will manage behavior? How will you exercise this dog?

Carefully put together a list of what you really want, knowing what the main things you want are, and what your limitations are. Then find out what dog suits your family best by either reading through the breed information page, or reading the summed up care and information of each breed on its page. (This site has lots of information on each breed from SEVERAL different sites) REMEMBER: Buying a puppy is a HUGE commitment, and you're planning on it being lifetime of the puppy, right? So make sure you get it right! Be sure that EVERYTHING about the dog suits your needs, and that EVERYTHING about your family suits your dogs needs.

Second Step: Contacting Us

Found that perfect puppy? Now it's time to contact the breeder. You will either be contacting Denise or Terri. Emails are great, but after a while, we do prefer to talk on the phone or in person.

WE ABSOLUTELY WILL NOT SELL A PUPPY 100% THROUGH EMAIL. VOCAL CONTACT MUST BE MADE!

At this point, make sure you have time to talk! We care ALOT about the homes our dogs go to, so we'll be asking alot of questions, and would like to get to know you.

Be sure to get your list together of any questions you would like to ask about the puppy, breed, parents, or anything else. If you forget something, don't hesitate to call back!

We will talk about everything you need to know, and we will tell you all about every specific thing the breed of pup needs, it's characteristics, and it's general daily needs (just in case you forgot :)).

We will explain how we ship, the payment, the papers, the contracts, and the lifetime guarantees.

If you cannot reach us by phone, leave a message with the best time to reach you, and we will call you back ASAP.

Third Step: Securing The Puppy

When you have made your final decision, we will then expect a deposit.
A deposit is required for security measures; if you put down a deposit, you feel at peace knowing the puppy is yours, in which case puppy is removed from advertisements. We feel at peace as well, knowing that you won't say "HOLD THE PUPPY" then never contact us again. PLEASE understand that by backing out of a puppy sale, you are hurting the puppys chance of a family. People like to get their puppies as soon and young as possible, and if you ask us to hold a puppy for you and you back out when the puppy is 8 weeks old, then it really only has 2 weeks before people are no longer interested because of the age :(

That is why deposits are required.

If we have not talked on the phone yet, you MUST call before you can put your deposit down! Talking to us before the deposit is made is a MUST!

Fourth Step: Getting Your Home and Family Ready For Puppy

The day is getting closer! Now you have to get home and family ready for puppy! How do you do this? Of course you already have a million things planned, but here are some of the most important things you may forget, that must be done!

Talk with your family. Are you getting a teacup? Then you and your family need to sit down and talk about it's special care. Talk about sugar drops, make sure each family member knows how to spot one, and that everyone knows who to call (WE WILL ALWAYS BE AVAILABLE! CALL US IMEDIATELY IF YOUR PUPPY IS SUGAR DROPPING AND YOU NEED HELP!) or how to handle it. Show your family the nutri-cal, how to administer it, and also be sure you have karo syrup at hand JUST IN CASE! Talk about how to prevent sugar drops, such as making sure someone is always with the teacup or that it will not be left alone for more than 2 hours. Talk about making sure teacup is never left unattended on high surfaces such as couches, beds, or chairs. Taking these precautions and making sure your family is ready makes life with a teacup SO much easier!

But what if you're not getting a teacup? Talk with your family about exercising, playing, and/or grooming the dog. Make sure everyone understands the day-to-day maintnance of your new dog, and that everyone knows what to do!

Get Your Home Ready. Just like getting your home ready for a baby, there are many things you need to do before puppy can be let loose. First, make sure there are no poisonous plants or foods around for puppy to get into (you can view some items on "WHEN TO CALL THE VET"). Look around for possible cords puppy could chew on, and get in the habbit of closing doors behind you so that puppy cannot go in there and go potty. If you have carpets, make sure someone is always going to be around to watch puppy.

Get Puppys Home Ready. What you will need:

A kennel; if you plan to keep puppy in kennel for long periods of time, a large open-wire crate, infant playpen, or exercise pen is the best choice. A small kennel is also recommended to keep at your bedside at night to keep puppy from stressing out.

Puppy food (your own brand or my suggested brand)

Small Toys (infant toys work GREAT! They're the perfect size and not a choking hazzard. Plus, they LOVE them!)

Blanket (Puppy will need something soft and cuddly for comfort)

Small Food & H20 dishes (Because it IS possible for puppy to over-eat, get some size appropriate dishes for food and water-stainless steel is the best for cleaning and health)

Outside fence or Exercise Pen (This is not required, but highly recommended. My puppies wont run off if you're with them, but it's very possible for someone to snatch puppy right up.)

Soda Bottle With Rocks or Rolled up Newspaper (Use this for quieting puppy. Fill the bottle with rocks and shake around kennel -never hit puppy with it- to stop any whining or barking that MAY occur-remember, this will all be new for puppy!)

Litter Box w/Tidy Cats Litter (Some of our puppies ARE litterbox trained. Tidy Cats litter works best. Our puppies WILL NOT eat it. However, try to stay away from dog litter, I have heard of dogs eating that because it looks like treats)

Newspaper/peepee pads (If you plan to outdoor train your puppy, you will need peepee pads or newspaper for puppys kennel and any room puppy will be in in case of an accident)

Fifth Step: Final Payment

After your half down deposit, you will have half of the price of the dog plus shipping/delivery cost. We will inform you of the cost before you purchase your puppy. At this point, either when you are ready (if we are waiting on you) or the puppy is ready, we will plan the final payment and then deliver/ship puppy! After the date of puppys homecoming is determined, call your vet and schedule an appointment within 3 days of puppys homecoming.

Sixth Step: Bringing Puppy HOME!

If you pick puppy up at the airport, you will need:

Nutri-Cal: Give this to puppy as SOON as you take him out of the crate as we have explained.
Fresh Papers for kennel: If you have a long drive home, fresh papers are important because puppy may have gone potty during the plane ride!
Karo Syrup: JUST in case! Be sure that if you have a teacup that you have Karo Syrup just in case of the unlikely event it has a hard sugar drop you have it there!
A harness & leash for puppy (collars can slip over head or collapse the trachea)

If we deliver or you pick up puppy, you will need:

A travel kennel for puppy to have a safe ride home in
A snuggly blanket for the travel kennel
1 tube of puppy Nutri Cal
A harness & leash for puppy (collars can slip over head or collapse the trachea)

As exciting as that first day or night may be, try to limit puppys handling and play to a minimum, and try to keep puppy calm and happy. Make sure puppy gets adequate food and water, and be sure to give him/her nutri-cal every hour if s/he is a teacup.

After this point, you are all ready :) Just always remember, we are here for 100% support 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year!!!

Buying a Puppy From Us....

Mayhem, and scamp socializing with Phebe the pot belly pig	Learning to use the litter box. Mia helping to teach pups.	Poddy time....
Neo the mastiff, checking over Blue, a Chorky pup.	My 4 X 4 momma and puppy pens... and Happy in right corner...	My 4 X 4 momma and puppy pens..
4/25/08 Puppy play time... two litters playing together...	4/25/08... group nap time..	4/25/08 Out door play time... Fresh air and Sunshine is good for every one!!
4/25/08 a Pom-Chi and a Chorky... Running in the sun!	4/25/08 Out door play time..	4/25/08 Jacob.. the Border Collie pup, LOVES to play with puppies!

What Are You Paying For??!!

I know my prices are high, and the prices I paid for my dogs was high. Why??
You are getting Top Notch quality with my puppies. I breed for health, temperament, color and conformation. I want my pups to look as good as their health and temperament are. All my breeding dogs came from top notch kennels who are brucellosis and herpies free. They have tested their dogs for all concerning health issues. Their is 4 breeders with the same bloodlines I have, and no one has had any health issues. I can stand behind my dogs 100%, b/c the breeders I got my dogs from can stand behind their dogs 100%.
   But they are not AKC. No not all my dogs are AKC. But look here at Damian, he is AKC, and is way over size, and with a genetic flaw, that the breeders were willing to continue to breed on!! YOUR DOGS REGISTRATION PAPERS ARE ONLY AS GOOD AS YOUR BREEDER. If your breeder knows they have flaws/disorders in their bloodline, you will see it in how far they are willing to stand behind their dogs. I feel any one who will not guarantee against known genetic disorders in their breed, knows they have those genetic disorders in their bloodlines.
    I offer a lifetime, not one yr or three yrs, but LIFETIME guarantee against any life threatening genetic or co-genital disorder. "IF" a life threatening disorder where to show up, than I would replace your puppy, with another 12 point vet checked puppy, which may be done (by certain circumstances)with or with out the exchange of the defected puppy.
  I have two AWESOME vets behind me, and you are more than welcome to call them and ask them about me and my health practices with my animals. Many times before I think of the best way to handle a situation, I am on the phone with my vet, and we are figuring it out together. I feel a good solid relationship with a vet is a MUST to any ones breeding program. With out a good solid relationship with a good vet, how do you know where you are headed, and what you are sending out your door??
    My dogs are usually loose in my house, and on my property. I however do not believe in leaving dogs loose unattended, so I do have chain link kennels outside, and I have crates inside, as well as exercise pens in my living room, where my dogs stay when I can not watch them.
    My mommas sleep in my room, when they up to two weeks due. (If they do not sleep with me already full time) I have two crates that are right next to my bed, that way I can be easily awakened if the go into labor during my sleep. I never let a momma have pups alone. I am always right there. Sometimes I can not attend family activities, and have to cancel appointments, b/c of birthing.
  After birth, my mommas stay in my room for 2-3 weeks. The can be left alone, and quiet during those first couple of weeks when they really want to be. They can concentrate on just being a mom. Moms are let out 3-4 times a day for poddy breaks.
  I free feed Purina Pro-Plan puppy small breed, during the pregnancy, and all through to the day the pups leave us. I handle the pups right from birth, and continue to handle them every day.
   At 2-3 wks old the pups are moved to the living room, where they are in there own 4X4 exercise pen, where they have free choice fresh water, and Purina 24/7, with momma. They have access to papers or a litter box at this time as well, so by 8 to 12 weeks when you get your puppy, he/she is either litter box trained, or paper trained.
  I DO NOT ALLOW MY PUPS TO BE ADOPTED UNDER 8 WEEKS OF AGE. PERIOD, FOR ANY MONEY OR EXCEPTIONS. I feel it is very important to the puppies mental and wellness to their health that they stay with their mother until they are physically, and mentally ready to leave their mothers. Most are ready at 8 weeks, but if they are not, I will not let them go until I feel they are physically and mentally ready, up to 12 weeks of age. My puppies are still nursing from their mother well up to 8 weeks of age, or older. They are not taken from mom and "weaned", they eat when they are ready to eat, the food is down 24/7, and when they are ready, they start eating WHILE they are STILL nursing from mom. They get a great start with a FANTASTIC immune system that way. My pups are with mom until the day they leave, to get all the teachings mom has to offer them. I feel this is why so many people say my puppies are the most mentally balanced pups they have ever had.
    We socialize and handle our pups as if they were ours to keep. We try to name all of them, and love them as if we were keeping them. They sit and watch tv with us, and my son takes them out, and plays with them all around the house. They are socialized with the other dogs we own, and the other pups from other litters, if we have more than one litter at a time. After 8 weeks of age the pups may start socializing out of the house in public. We DO NOT allow tons of people to handle, or touch them, but they still get the interaction of new situations, with out compromising their health. We have certain places and people we visit for each litter of pups, that are safe.
   All our dogs receive regular health checks and shots, whether they are breeding, retired, or spayed pets. All our dogs receive regular de-wormings, as we do have other animals, and our neighbors have dogs as well. They do not interact with our neighbors dogs, but I try to take every precaution I can. All pups start a de-worming regamain starting at 2 weeks,4 wks, 6, wks and a final at 8 wks.
   At 7-8 weeks of age the pups go in to see the vet, where they are given a 12 point health check and the first set of puppy shots. The Dr looks over every thing, to insure I am continuing to produce puppies free of illness, and defects. A report of the 12 point exam is given to you when you receive your puppy. The staff is very excited to see our pups, and are a vital socializing step.
   So what are you paying for?? A MENTALLY, PHYSICALLY WELL BALANCED PUPPY, FROM SUPERB BLOODLINES OF HEALTH, COMBINED WITH ALLOT OF MY TIME, ENERGY AND MONEY.